The spread line can almost be horizontal. To sew a shirt, start by pinning the shoulders of the body pieces together with the right side facing inwards.
Use the edge of the under collar as the guide.
How to sew a shirt collar. Sew the collar pieces together, using a straight stitch and the seam allowance according to the pattern piece. But don’t turn all the way to the next side. Keeps the collar ends down.
Then fold it again lengthwise and press with your iron. Once your interfacing is done, pin and cut your fabrics using the pattern pieces. Sew the collar stand to the shirt.
We don’t make a collar+stand unit and attach that to the neckline either. There’s little room for error, particularly for shirts that will be buttoned at the neck. Attach the collar stand to the shirt neck edge, matching dots and notches.
Make sure the center back notches match up. A quick online search will bring up many styles of collar, but here we’re going to look at the classic shirt collar; When i sew shirts for clients, i know that the shirt collar is the first thing they will notice.
Apply interfacing to ws of the upper collar. Now, sew the facing/collar to the other matching collar piece, keeping the right sides together. Fold in the seam allowance of the other layer, pin and stitch with a topstitch very close to the edge (see the arrows).
The points of the collar are the most important part, so ensure you stop 5/8” from the edge before pivoting and continuing on. Be careful to match at the end points so the end of the collar stand lines up with the edge of the shirt front. You should effectively have a collar sandwich in your hands.
Before you stitch this up, please read the next couple of paragraphs for some tips to keep in mind while you're sewing this. The inner stand will go on top of the collar. Pin the upper and under collar along the outer edges, rst.
Post, today i bring you our top 10 tips to stop you getting hot under the collar, curtousy of my lovely sewing friend, suzy aka suzy aka @sewing_in_spain. Because the seam allowances need to be trimmed, i like to sew this seam twice to secure the fabric from fraying. So today i’m going to show you how to sew collar points so they turn out nice and sharp.
Choose the side of the collar that you want on the outside of the shirt. First, fold the seam allowance of one of the short edges over towards the collar. Sew the collar together along the outer edges.
With your tweezers, grab the seam allowances of both edges at the corner and hold tight. Stitch first the inside layer like you would for bias biding. Press the bottom seam up 5/8″, wrong sides together.
Then fold the seam allowance of the inner layer under and top stitch. Leave the neck edge open. Put your presser foot down and sew one stitch, leaving your needle down.
Make sure that the interfaced side of the collar is the one that is touching the uninterfaced collar stand which we just pinned to the shirt. Be careful when you sew around the corners e.g. I will be sewing with a 1.5 cm sa.
Stitch the shirt to the stand at 5/8″ seam allowance. To sew a classic collar, simply place the collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the upper edge and sides, beginning and ending 5/8” from the edge. Position the stitch about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) from the raw edges of the collar and neckline.
At the corner the two edges will overlap. Leave the needle down, and turn the collar so you are ready to sew the next side. Leave the neck edge open.
Instead we make the collar, then attach the stand to the shirt, then insert the collar into the stand. Press the seam allowance over on the bottom edge of the inner collar stand, the interfaced one. Sew the long collar seam.
It’s made of two parts, the collar and the collar stand. Now pin the collar to the top edge of the top collar stand, matching notches. Pin just one edge of the collar to the neckline.
You may need to clip the seam allowance on the shirt as shown above. Line up the edge of the collar with the 1″ slit you cut earlier. You have just sewn over your thread tail.
Cut one collar stand and one collar fall pieces in fusible interfacing but cut away the seam allowances to eliminate bulk in the finished garment. Press the seam up towards the stand. The shirt has buttons which are then fastened to the buttonholes on the collar ends.
Next, when you get to the corner, stop with the needle down at the point. Sew a straight stitch along the raw edges of the collar and neckline. Following on from our sewing buttonholes :
Now, pull the thread on the right side over to the left, around the base of the needle. Next, use a straight stitch to sew along both shoulders before opening up the shirt with the right side facing down, pinning the ribbing to the neckline, and sewing it in place with a zigzag stitch. Cut two collar stand and two collar fall pieces (inner and outer, respectively) on the grainline of the fabric.
Put it to the side. After you finish pinning the collar in place, take the shirt and collar to your sewing machine and sew a straight stitch along the raw edges. You should now be holding both threads in your left hand.
Press the seam allowance toward the collar. Pin around shirt neckline and sew. This collar gives a more casual look to the shirt.
Baste the collar to the shirt. Pin it to the neckline. Lets put it all together.
Now, pin the collar stand to the neckline of your shirt. The shirt yoke has two layers, so it’s handy to hide the seam allowance inside. Pin the inner stand to the neckline, keeping the seam allowance you pressed up.
Keeping it in place with your finger, fold the seam allowances of the long edge towards the collar too. Take the outer collar stand and pin it to the neckline, remember the seam allowance will overhang at each side. Matching the center and the extremities, pin the collar to the shirt.
You are pinning the right side of your collar stand to the right side of your shirt neckline. The shirt collar construction method i use and describe is based on classes i took at the fashion institute of technology in manhattan , tricks i’ve picked up from books and videos, and trial and error. Before removing the pattern pieces, transfer the pattern markings — on the collar stand, you may see notches for matching, and dots or triangles to mark the shoulder point where the collar attaches to the shirt.
One thing that’s different about this method is that we make the collar first, before sewing the collar stand. We’ll sew the stand to the shirt body, and then attach the collar to the stand. How to make shirt collar.
Trim the pressed area to 1/4″ grade the seams to reduce bulk. Clip the notched edge of the collar to the stitching line at the small dots, and press under the seam allowance: When attaching the collar, you start by sewing the outer layer of the collar stand to the shirt neckline.
This is a turned down collar with small buttonholes at the collar point ends.